Linguine

Heat the broiler and put the top rack about 4 inches from the heat. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put the flour in a large bowl with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper and stir. Rinse and trim the mushrooms; slice or tear them into large pieces. Add them to the bowl, toss to coat, and transfer them to a plate, shaking off any excess flour. Rinse, trim, and chop the celery. Trim, peel, and chop the onion. Peel and slice enough garlic to measure 2 teaspoons.

Rinse, trim, and split the lettuce in half lengthwise..Put onto a rimmed baking sheet, cut side up, drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil until slightly wilted and charred on top, 2 to 5 minutes. Drizzle with vinegar and let sit. Add the pasta to the boiling water and stir occasionally; cook until tender but not mushy, starting to taste after 7 minutes. When the pasta is done, drain it, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Rinse, dry, and chop the chives.

Put 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add half the mushrooms and cook, turning once, until they’re crisp and golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a towel-lined plate; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining mushrooms and oil.

Return the pan to medium heat, add the celery, onions, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally until the onions are soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Raise the heat to high, add 1/4 cup wine or water and the saffron, and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan to release any browned bits, until most of the liquid has evaporated, just a minute or 2. Lower the heat to medium and add the pasta, chives, and half the reserved cooking water. Toss until hot, adding more cooking water as needed to keep it brothy, about 1 minute. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve the pasta and broth topped with the mushrooms, and pass the romaine at the table.