Avocados Rancheros

Heat the oven to 325°F. Put about 2 cups of the tomatoes (if necessary save the rest for another use) in a small saucepan with the sugar, a pinch of salt, and plenty of pepper and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently and cook, stirring occasionally until it thickens, 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim, peel, and chop the onion and enough garlic to measure 1 tablespoon. Put 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally until the onions are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and rinse the beans. Add the chili powder to the pan and stir until it’s fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beans and 1/2 cup water and cook, mashing with a potato masher or fork and stirring until they break up a bit and get creamy. Remove from the heat and cover.

Rinse, trim, and chop the chile, cilantro, and scallions; keep the white and green parts of the scallions separate. Rinse and quarter the limes. Add half the cilantro, the scallion whites, the juice from 1 lime, and as much chile as you’d like to the tomatoes and cook at a gentle bubble until all is ready to serve, adding a tablespoon of water at a time if they become dry. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Return the beans to medium heat (they should be slightly soupy; if not, add 1 to 3 tablespoons water). Taste and adjust the seasoning. Halve and pit the avocado; scoop out the flesh with a large spoon and cut each half in half again. Nestle the 4 quarters in the beans, drizzle with the remaining tablespoon oil, and sprinkle with salt. Cover and cook, undisturbed, until the beans and avocados are heated through, 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, place the tortillas directly on the rack in the oven and heat until slightly crisp around the edges, 5 or 6 minutes. To serve, spoon the beans and avocados over the tortillas, top with salsa, and garnish with scallion greens, cilantro, and lime wedges.