Kabocha-Apple Shawarma 

Heat the oven to 400°F. Rinse and dry the squash. Trim, peel, and chop the onion. Put the vegetables on a large rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, coriander, cumin, turmeric, and cardamom; toss to coat then spread into a single layer. Roast, stirring once, until squash is tender and onions are crisp and browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and raise the heat to 425°F.

Rinse and halve the lemon; squeeze 1 tablespoon of the juice into a small bowl. Add the baking soda and stir to dissolve. Brush (or spread) the top of each tortilla with the lemon mixture, fold in half, and press the wet sides together; let sit.

Rinse and trim the chile. Rinse the cilantro and parsley and trim the toughest stems. Transfer the herbs to a cutting board with the garlic and some or all of the chile (depending on your affinity for heat). Using a rocking motion with your knife, chop the ingredients together as finely as you can manage. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and add the vinegar, 1 1/2 teaspoons oil, and some salt and pepper. Stir, pressing down with the back of a spoon to mash the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Rinse the apple and cut downward around the core to remove the flesh; chop the flesh. Put 1 1/2 teaspoons oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the apples and cook, stirring occasionally until they’re soft and golden, 5 to 10 minutes.

Stir the roasted vegetables into the apple mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning, cover, and lower the heat to keep the mixture warm. Wash and dry the baking sheet and grease it with 1 tablespoon oil. Put the tortillas on the pan and turn to coat both sides with the oil.

Toast the tortillas in the oven, turning once, until puffed and crisp, 2 or 3 minutes per side. Put two tortillas on each plate, top with shawarma, and pass the herb sauce.